sanje falls    udzungwa     night     14  DEC   2010

lying in a tent by the sanje river, about 10 at night, the calls you hear are from hyrax in the rocks

Imanuel showed how to hunt for chameleons in the bushes with lights. After a long hunt you found the Pygmy Bearded Chameleon Rieppeleon brevicaudatus ..
Imanuel had been with Hitoshi Takano, from the Natural History Museum, on long expeditions deeper into the forest

the river here runs over rock, scoured into rounded bowls and channels, before plunging over the edge of a cliff. The terrace at the top of the falls is a famous viewpoint from which to watch the sun rise over the plains, which stretch to the horizon below

.. compared with its muted form among the winter streets of London .. where water froze in the toilet ..

the forests of Udzungwa, forming part of the forests of the Eastern Arc Mountains, are among the most biodiverse places .. new species are regularly described: insects, amphibians, even large mammals

Udzungwa are a sub-group of Hehe people, we are told .. while the bark of the Mgude tree is covered in a powder so slippery it cannot be climbed by snakes or monkeys ..

he said his name meant messy and I laughed; later I realized it was mercy and was ashamed - Huruma can communicate in whistles with birds in the canopy - as Wittgenstein was reputed to do

the forests are cool and damp, constantly shedding water, which feeds the complex of miombo woods and grassland where giraffes, buffalos, deer and antelopes, even elephants could be seen from the train - as it travels through the dusk towards Mang'ula